I just want trousers that fit
The Classic Trousers pattern is here!
Before filming the The Anatomy of Trousers, I looked through my existing trousers to see if there were any primary sources I could study the construction details of. I emerged with literally just one pair: Junya Watanabe’s that I got back in 2017. The fit was, and still remains, great, and the wool is silken, super smooth to the touch.
Me owning just one pair of classic trousers should tell you everything you need to know about my relationship with them: that I’d rather shop for a new backup hard drive than trousers.
The Anatomy of a Garment started because:
A) I wanted to avoid dressing-room disappointment.
B) I wanted to learn how to spot truly well-made clothes.
C) I wanted to know how to make said well-made clothes.
Where can I find a classic, high-quality button-up shirt? What makes a pair of trousers actually good? Which materials and finishes are worth the premium, and what’s just nice-to-have?
All that led me down the elegant rabbit hole that is men’s bespoke tailoring. The most insightful blog I found on the subject was Permanent Style, which documents the bespoke process in meticulous detail: close-ups of Napoli-made shirts, behind-the-scenes of skilled tailors hand-sewing intricate buttonholes, and examples of the fit process at all these various institutions. That’s how I discovered 100Hands and D’Avino for my Anatomy of a Shirt video.
Reading these blogs made me want to try trousers from The Armoury or Drake’s—or even get a pair tailored at Saman Amel in Stockholm. But alas, I’m not ready to travel internationally just for trousers (yet).
The mission for The Anatomy of a Garment is to bring that same menswear-level detail and love of fit into a series primary revolving around womenswear. To appreciate and construct garments for themselves—not for a brand name, a logo, or the honorific values they project.
The Pattern
The Classic Trousers pattern is based on what I look for in trousers, with inspiration ranging from menswear tailoring, Domenico Gnoli’s paintings, and my aforementioned favorite Junya trousers at home.
You can download the pattern files here:
This is also the first time I’ve ever digitized a paper pattern of mine, so if things aren’t 100% perfect, just visualize me sitting in front of the computer with horrible posture, twiddling my thumbs while trying to relearn Illustrator after not using it for 5 years.
I went for a straighter, wider leg with a bit more rise, since I’ve grown to prefer a semi-high-waisted fit. I added a single back besom pocket instead of two (or none). Keep in mind, the total side seam length is 105cm, so adjust the leg length as needed (ideally above the hem and below the knee). All seams include a 1cm allowance.
In the video/photos, the hem looks a bit short. That’s because I hemmed them while wearing socks. Learn from my mistake and factor in the side seam length while wearing the shoes you plan to pair or wear them with.
With that all said, I hope you enjoy this first pattern. Let me know what you think, and, as always, thank you for your support.
Warmest,
Victoria
Loved this video, as always!
I have to say, I was super inspired by the shirt video, I read the articles you linked they were so insightful. And now I am the proud owner of two perfectly fitting handmade shirts one in a crisp blue popline and the other in a dark blue chambray.
I'm tackling pants this weekend!
The third download (Letter) just seems to be the pattern again. Is this intentional?